Annoying squeak

[Neil1911]

You guys are really making OPC labour rates seem quite good value!

[Jon A]

You guys are really making OPC labour rates seem quite good value!

[TheTraveller]

You guys are really making OPC labour rates seem quite good value!

If your'e not tech' minded, experienced or qualified then that would be so.
Recently one of the actuators was replaced under extended warranty, on my vehicle. The OPC customer agent said, if it wasn't under warranty, that would have cost you £630.

[mickmichael]

Mr Traveller, I'm OK retracting the piston fully back by turning the mechanism fully clockwise until resistance, you then fit your pads, but I've been warned that when the motor is put back on, for it to go into the right position you need the diagnostic pad, as this moves it back and forward quite a few time to get it in the right position for the handbrake.

What do you think of this. before i do anything, release hand brake, jack up car and remove handbrake motor. then mark your socket and screw it anticlockwise (toward the disc) and count how far it turns, then do the same when new pads are on??

mike

[TheTraveller]

Hey Mike, you cant use that method because, if your'e fitting new discs and or pads, the thickness will have altered. And you may damage the mechanism, as you re attach the housing. If you have a look at the vid, and there is another on YT, which also shows what to do. It's a fine threaded screw and turns full turns a few times.
If you apply the hand brake a few times it will auto adjust itself. It has to do this in its normal course of operation, to take the play up as the pads begin to wear. The actuator screw needs to be turned clockwise.
Have a look at this vid'




frank

[mickmichael]

Like this on an MG ??

[Macanboy]

As mentioned to screw it back you have to remove the motor .This involves undoing the two bolts risking marring them as they are factory tight and highly likely corroded solid .Second you break the water tight seal .Ok in theory you could clean up the rear to your surface , maybe apply some gunk etc to pseudo make a water tight gasket . Your call .But when , not if this fails and water ingress 8uggers the motor you are reaping what you have just sown in grief .

The 12 v method avoids this risk / potential down side .
Infact there’s zero down side .
If you understood what I wrote it doesn’t matter which way round you start .
With the caliper attached and feed wire unplugged ( car has no idea now ) it it s whirring closed you will see the pads tighten and be unable to rock the disk .If it’s open it will whirl longer and free up the disk for you to rock it a bit back and forth .

Because it’s not conected to the car ( any ECU s etc ) the cars blind to you meddling.
As I said fully retracted and piston pushed back in the usual way with new thicker pads installed simply reverse the wires from your 12 v close it up ,Or work the EBC switch a few cycles .

When it stops after working the switch on the centre console…. Wether on of off ( retracted ) it’s resistance shoots up .The on board ECU now connected detects this and no matter where your finger on the switch shuts off the power leaning it either fully retracted ( off ) or fully pressed up ( on ) .As I said kinda auto calibration.

Any proprietary car code reader / scanner / tech service device- etc etc only shoots 12 v thought it anyhow .
What you are doing is exactly the same , with a bit of initial experimentation to figure out which way round the 12 v goes to fully retract .

Simples .

Just use a couple of nails on the end of your 12 v wire supply to carefully touch the pins inside the plug to the motor once you disconnect it . There will be 3 pins a +ve , a - ve and a signal usually the middle one .The signal illuminaties the red led on the switch but no worries you are behind all this as it’s disconnected.
Simply find which two run the motor and adjust to open it .

[Macanboy]

The confusion here is folks think the ECU measures the motor running time and this figures out the pad thickness .
This has to be calibrated sure , typed into a manufacturer supplied hand held device plugged in .

But for risk of repeating myself VAG EBC brakes DOESN’ T work like this . Ferrari EBC do and need a dealer .

They ( VAG ) work on motor resistance shooting up as the current applied no longer turns the armature when it stops at either fully open or closed .The ECU shuts down the power when this R spike is detected .
So when say applying the “ hand brake “ you can keep your finger pulling the button in the UP position Ad infinity and the motor will stop once it reaches a stop .It can’t burn out .

It’ low pad thickness light is determined by the sensor communication with the ground when it contacts at 2-3 mm left .
This is completely different to timing the motor run time and needs zero in put by the tech ( or DIY er ) when fitting fresh pads .

There’s no need to phaff about removing the motor and winding back the motor with all the inherent forward risks of future water ingress .That’s nuts .

[Macanboy]

You guys are really making OPC labour rates seem quite good value!

If your'e not tech' minded, experienced or qualified then that would be so.
Recently one of the actuators was replaced under extended warranty, on my vehicle. The OPC customer agent said, if it wasn't under warranty, that would have cost you £630.
[/quote

Water ingress does this ^ knackers the motor .

[TheTraveller]

Like this on an MG ??

The Macan is very similar. As shown just by applying the h/b will auto adjust it once fitted.
Just to note, make sure you have the right disc.
And don’t leave the caliper dangling in mid air. Support it to prevent stress on the flexible hose.
I would suggest you use whatever method you feel confident and comfortable working with, to undertake the task.

frank