Annoying squeak

[mickmichael]

So, locked the Air suspension, released the parking brake and jacked up rear (blocks under front) looks an easy job to take out calliper and grease the 'usual bits' bugger won't shift, so back inside to watch you tube video (no i didn't do that before starting) seems you need a fancy piece of kit to move back the parking brake motor!!!

Pads are quite low, so it looks like a job that's going to cost me????

Or do you lot know better?? 2015 Macan S

Mike

[snipez999]

You need a scan tool like this one I believe: https://www.design911.co.uk/p/icarsoft- ... ake-reset/

[TheTraveller]

Have another look on YouTube. There is another site that explains how to release the parking brake actuators, by using a multi splined drive key. Mechanical means rather than the electronic method.
The spline size to remove the motor housing is a T30.
And the size to wind back the actuator is a T45, clockwise rotation, if I remember.

[snipez999]

This one?

I still think that a scantool is a useful thing to have in the armoury though.

[TheTraveller]

Yep that’s the way. But I didn’t use a g clamp for the piston retraction. I have brake piston spreader that, as the name suggests, fits inside the caliper and shoves them outward.
Two torque bolts are much cheaper than the device.
I have the same dilemma now fitting my own TPMS monitors. The sequencing device is expensive. I’ll get a indi garage to enable them.

[mickmichael]

Good video, I'm sure I can do that, thanks
.
Mike

[snipez999]

Two torque bolts are much cheaper than the device.
I have the same dilemma now fitting my own TPMS monitors. The sequencing device is expensive. I’ll get a indi garage to enable them.

There's scantool Use Number 2 for you right there.....

[Macanboy]

If you haven’t got a suitable scan tool ( por i soft ot equivalent) it’s easy .
Just unplug the motor and pass 12 v across its wires .
One way will move it closed hand brake on the other ( switch your wire round ) will open it .
It works on resistance ( R ) , so when it stops turning at whatever position fully open or closed the current R momentarily increases .
So don’t worry as soon as it stops moving , stops making a whirring noise simply disconnect your 12 v .
Do this ^ with the calliper attached in its normal position on the disk .

Then use you normal piston retractor to push the pads back when the calliper is off .

Switch pads ,
Reassemble……….work the EPB switch a few times for the thing to settle .Remember your new pads are thicker and the piston fully retracted as I said it knows where they are by the R spike when they stop moving the first time you apply the EPB and auto recalibrates .

This applies to all VAG ( of which Porsche are a member ) cars with EPB s

[mickmichael]

Macanboy, can't I just screw it back with a socket as shown in the video?? Not keen on putting power on the unit. What happens when new pads are fitted and its all back together? will the motor settle in the right position when the hand brake is activated a few times??

Mike

[TheTraveller]

Macanboy, can't I just screw it back with a socket as shown in the video?? Not keen on putting power on the unit. What happens when new pads are fitted and its all back together? will the motor settle in the right position when the hand brake is activated a few times??

Mike

Yes they will auto settle back, against the pads.
I could have mentioned the power to the unit. But it means setting the cables up via an external power source, and getting your head behind the calliper, to access miniature connectors at the terminal. It's possible, but unless you're tech skilled it's a bit more advanced.
The tool needed is not a normal socket to wind the rotor back, it's a T45 splined male torx rod. But the housing needs to be removed from the rear of the calliper, to access it.